The Traditional English Restaurants of London

Over the years, this lesser known outpost of the Savoy Empire has attracted the wealthy foreigner and the British upper classes, who love the fact that it is situated in a rather select little backwater between Grosvenor and Berkeley Squares.

They appreciate that though it could never be described as even reasonably priced, flawless simplicity has always been its aim, and it hits the mark most accurately. As a result, it has been continuously highly rated by all the major food guides, most of them ever since they commenced reviewing!

Michel Bourdin had been Head Chef for well over twenty five years, and he set the standards in English food, though he is French, that others attempt to match, serving often straightforward, classic dishes, but sublimely prepared and perfectly served by an attentive and expert waiting team. Recently he retired, and - only the sixth Head Chef in over a century - new boy Jerome Ponchelle took over, however, he had been working there since 1988 anyway.

However, suddenly that triggered off massive change, and Jerome speedily departed to Wiltons, where he is now in charge of the kitchens. The management contract went to Gordon Ramsay, and he brought in his protégée Angela Hartnett as Head Chef.

With only 11 tables, The Grill Room still provides the mood and atmosphere of a private dining room, and retains many of the old favourites, such as Dover sole, fillet of beef Rossini, and brad and butter pudding. It is decorated in Georgian style with a green and gold colour scheme, you’ll find it particularly attractive in the evening when the garden is floodlit and the tables are laid with Venetian candles.

However, the main restaurant’s menu could best be described as a quick gastronomic tour across Europe, with Angela's cooking specialising in Modern European food with strong flavours and excellent presentation.

The Connaught’s wine list is equally as famed as its food, unfortunately with prices to match, and you can rely on them to decant a really superb claret with impeccable judgement, though new choices have brought it much more up to date.