The Traditional English Restaurants of London

Following the imposition of the New Order at The Savoy Grill three years ago, it was only going to be a matter of time before somebody accepted the challenge to recreate it elsewhere. Step forward Sir Rocco Forte, the then recent acquisitor of the legendary Brown’s Hotel in Albemarle Street, an establishment which in the eyes of a number of august gentlemen achieved over the years a status well beyond that of a mere hotel.

On 12 December 2005 Baroness Thatcher made one of her rare public appearances to re-open Brown’s Hotel, at noon, just in time for lunch naturally.

The new Grill is generally considered to be a great success, not least due to Sir Rocco’s sister, Olga Polizzi, who has managed to combine masterminding the £20m plus refurbishment of Brown’s with transforming her rustic idyll near Tavistock into a superb country retreat for the truly discerning.

Former fans of the Savoy Grill will recognise familiar features, not least the maître d’, Angelo Maresca, who, unable to cope with the upheaval at the Savoy, left, promising Sir Rocco that he would be available for Brown’s when the time came.

Also present is Executive Chef Laurence Glayzer, no stranger to the Savoy as he worked at the Grill there previously, he was also at Harry's Bar, The Ritz and is fresh from running his own Chateau in France. To the delight of many, the superb carving trolley, the banquettes, and the 1930s design features all help to rouse and satisfy a nagging longing seated in fond memories from the Strand.

The menu is a delight, an eclectic mix of the traditional and the completely unexpected, for instance you may not be surprised to find half dozen Colchester native oysters; potted Morecombe Bay shrimps with mace and lemon or dressed Cornish crab among the starters, but then there might be also the thoroughly up to date choice of seared blue fin tuna, oriental vegetable salad, soy dressing or butternut squash velouté with truffle oil and pumpkin seeds.

Mains are in a similar vein, with an excellent selection from the Grill, ranging from lamb cutlets, steak naturally, through to fish such as Dover sole, turbot or salmon, but then the selection might include loin of venison roasted with mace and pumpkin polenta; red mullet with grilled baby fennel and tarragon cream sauce or raviolis of langoustine with a lime cream sauce.

The restoration has been cleverly done, not least in the kitchen, which offers a menu that will appeal to the traditional, with some acceptable continental and modern influences brought to bear. Old favourites are there in abundance, and a three-course lunch menu and an a la carte both hit just the right note. The wine list has emerged as a real triumph.