The Traditional English Restaurants of London

It seemed only comparatively recently that we were moving into the era of the gastropub, yet now here is the new concept already. Whatever title the new style may become known by it is clear that the underlying concept of the friendly local still lives on, however much it may be dressed up.

Which it most certainly is at The Hill, a former tavern, where the time-worn concepts have been ironed out, the traditional cunningly maintained with results that must delight not only the owners but also the customers. Amongst them are the Gallagher brothers, Liam and Noel, Sadie Frost and Chris Evans, to drop but a few.

Amongst the tired notions that have been pensioned off are blackboard menus, mixed furniture masquerading as smart, and smelly loos. There are plenty more that have gone by the board but let’s talk about what has replaced them, rich colours, plush seating, gilded mirrors and what has been described as a decadent Parisian interior.

Interior design is largely the work of Christopher Boulter, no stranger to working with such demanding clients as English Heritage and the Crown Commissioners.

Nor is it just the decor that has moved upmarket. Under Senior Head Chef for Geronimo the cuisine has taken a fresh look at how and what people eat, settling for food as a lighter and simpler preoccupation, rather than a gastronomic obstacle course.

Dishes can include citrus roasted sea bass stuffed with chickpea and olive ragu, Highland beef carpaccio with pomegranate syrup and endive salad, though the traditional bangers and mash made with pork and leek, served with creamed potatoes and red onion marmalade are still there for those who missed breakfast.

So amidst this setting of Gallic degeneracy be prepared to mingle brilliantly, eat well and with discretion, drink . . . well c’mon we have to leave something to you, but rest assured there’s no lack of choice.

Total seating capacity is 80 indoors and 150 outdoors