The Traditional English Restaurants of London

Wiltons is part of the culinary history of London, with a long pedigree and reputation stretching back for over two hundred years, though not in its present site or form.

Always in the St James's area, Wiltons was originally opened in 1742 as a stall selling oysters, shrimps and cockles in the Haymarket by George William Wilton, a local shellfish monger. The business prospered and moved in 1805 to Cockspur Street, to be called Wiltons Shellfish Mongers and Oyster Rooms, and run by his nephew, William Wilton, who had been a tea dealer and grocer in Soho.

Over the next 50 years, the premises moved around St James's, thanks mostly to interfering town planners, and became a fully-fledged restaurant in 1840 in Ryder Street, called Wiltons Oyster Rooms. The first Royal Warrant was received in 1884 as Purveyor of Oysters to Queen Victoria, and a second as Purveyors to the Prince of Wales.

In 1889, the restaurant moved out of the family for the first time and was bought by David Edwin Winder, moving to larger premises in Duke Street until 1913, when it returned to King Street, St James's. It was at this time that Wiltons attracted a gastronomic clientele.

The license was taken over in 1930 by Mrs Bessie Leal until 1942, mid-war, when Olaf Hambro, who happened to be eating oysters alone at the bar as a bomb landed on St James's Church, Piccadilly, asked for the restaurant to be added to his bill as Mrs Leal folded her tea towel and apron and declared Wiltons closed.

Mr Hambro engaged the services of Jimmy Marks, then oyster man at Bucks Club, and reopened a week later. In 1964, Wiltons moved to Bury Street, and then to its current site at 55 Jermyn Street in 1984. The restaurant is still owned and managed by the Hambro family.

Mr and Mrs Marks achieved worldwide fame for the way that they ran Wiltons. Though Mr Marks passed away many years ago, Mrs Marks only died comparatively recently, and part of the history of Wiltons went with her.

It is, however, another place for gentle wallet crushing, as it is mainly the dining club of the expense account set, the very rich and top management. The Good Food Guide once described it accurately as ‘a cross between The Connaught (in its former guide) and Rules’.

This class of clientele knows exactly what it wants, and by jove it gets it at Wiltons, with extremely discreet service from waitresses in long jackets.

The General Manager is currently Margaret Levin, ex-wife of David Levin (The Greenhouse, Capital Hotel, etc), who has used her expertise in interior decoration to renovate and update the look at Wiltons.

Chef Jérôme Ponchelle, formerly Head Chef at The Connaught, is a specialist in fish and game, and Patrick Flaherty, who has been with Wiltons for 38 years, manages the impressive fresh seafood display at the Bar, whilst Sommelier Guillaume Villien is constantly updating and expanding Wiltons' extensive wine list.

Superb Dover Sole, Oysters – but at prices that would make the humble mollusc blush - and Game are among their specialities, with a marvellous wine list to match the food. Beware though, even the cheapest House White Wine - a Chardonnay - is £18.50 a bottle.

It is possible to eat there more reasonably if you book for their excellent three course Sunday lunch, a comparative bargain at £25.00. They also have a most attractive private room, seating up to eighteen people, it is available with no hire charges and a selection of special menus.