The Traditional English Restaurants of London

There has been an enormous change at the Savoy Grill; for so long this was the home of power lunching in London, as it generated the feeling that, in many ways, the food was far less important than the surroundings.

It was also predominately a male preserve, especially at lunchtime, when many famous regulars, like Sir David Frost, the late Sir Denis and Lady Thatcher, Lord King (Ex-Chairman of British Airways) or Charles Moore, editor of the Telegraph, had their own special tables. A great habitué, author Jeffrey Archer, was unfortunately unable to eat there for some time but is free to go again now!

The late Sir Winston Churchill dined regularly at Number 4, which was left empty for a year after his death as a mark of respect.

Now, like a new broom, in has come Gordon Ramsay’s protégé, Marcus Wareing, of Petrus fame, the décor has been completely changed, there are now wooden slatted blinds on the windows (a huge improvement).

The existing wood panelling has been restored to its original lighter patina with the banquette seating in dramatic horizontal stripes of nougat and matte black. Understated chic is created by wooden blinds and grey flannel on the windows, and new chandeliers in white and black and lined in silver to illuminate the room; but traditionalists will be disappointed that the trolleys for the main course roasts have been consigned back to the store cupboards.

Sadly one casualty of the change was Angelo Maresca, the finest maitre d’ in London, with twenty one years of experience at the Savoy Grill, who decided to depart at the end of July 2003; it will be a great loss as he has an amazing memory for every well-known face or past diner, and an ability to make everybody feel welcome and cared for.

The food has retained a certain simplicity, with quality of ingredients remaining the most important factor, and so far everybody has judged the changes, which had worried many concerned with losing a well loved London landmark, a great success, all credit to Marcus.

Fillet of beef for two is carved and sauced at the table and sides of smoked salmon gravadlax are sliced from the trolley. Other classics given an update are crème de barrie, Welsh rarebit, omelette Arnold Bennett, braised turbot, steak and kidney puddings with oysters and Cumberland sausages with Guinness gravy.

The famous dessert trolley remains and the old favourites have been given a new lease of life. Sherry trifle is served individually and rice pudding served with glazed pineapple and milk ice cream. Sitting alongside these classics is a more contemporary selection of dishes in Marcus’ signature style that puts the emphasis on lightness and intensity of flavour.