The Traditional English Restaurants of London

It would be a sad commentary on affairs if a national institution such as The Dorchester was anything less than top of the form in any of its departments. Whilst it may therefore come as no surprise that their flagship Grill Room under the noted Ollie Couillaud is in excellent shape, it is reassuring to know that English cuisine done with imagination and flair can still lead the world.

Recently The Grill, along with the rest of the hotel, has undergone a major refurbishment, and despite dire predictions about changes of ownership and loss of tradition has emerged even better than it was before, its traditional grandeur updated, its mannerisms for which it was so renowned, intact and tweaked where needed.

The rich and opulent décor amply matches the quality of the food and service which is perfectly manned with never a hint of a grovel – all that any reasonable person asks. Whoever trained – or found – the staff here, knows exactly what it is all about.

Carefully sourced ingredients are apparent from the outset, with oak smoked Scottish wild salmon setting the right note, beautifully carved and with a flavour that utterly convinces. Scotland scores another hit with the lobster soup, a difficult choice with cream of butternut squash soup also on the menu.

Warm native oysters are served with tender young spinach, Champagne mousseline and caviar, and baby spinach also features as the main ingredient in a delightful salad with Cashel Blue, spiced pears and walnuts. A special treat is the Denham Estate venison burger, served with a quail’s egg, griottine cherries, parsnips and Port, a wonderful blend of flavours.

The British love affair with fish and other creatures of the sea is reflected in a menu that certainly does not ignore this trait and of the none main courses normally on offer no less than four are of the sea, starting perhaps with grilled Cornish turbot with pearl barley and hazelnut broth, and horseradish cream. Assiette of Norfolk Horn lamb is served with artichokes, lentils, grain mustard and rosemary jus. The classic Dover sole is grilled or pan fried with brown butter and capers, and a ragout of John Dory, lobster and mussels is nicely off set with crème fraîche and chives.

Not for nothing does The Grill bear its name, and the specialities of the grill itself, veal chops, ribeye steak, calf’s liver and bacon, or lobster are served with either hand cut chips or olive mash, sauce béarnaise, sauce bordelaise, green peppercorn sauce or rosemary butter.

Amongst the desserts expect to find baked vacherin with garlic, thyme, white wine and country bread, prune and Armagnac clafoutis, with vanilla ice cream, or a plate of Valrhona chocolate desserts. An old favourite that has survived the changes is the crisp apple tart with clotted cream and Calvados.

A table d’hote at lunch during the week offers two courses for £25, or three courses for £27.50, including such traditional dishes as Angus beef with Yorkshire pudding, Lancashire hotpot and chocolate profiteroles. Sunday lunch is another bargain amongst such surroundings and service at £32.50. A wine list of truly international proportions and quality awaits those with good taste and deep pockets.