The Traditional English Restaurants of London

This bucolic heaven in the middle of Fulham shows that a good pedigree really counts when you are wanting to ensure success in the fiercely competitive culinary world that is London, as it is the result of a group effort by the three owners; Brett Graham of the renowned Ledbury in Notting Hill, Mike Robinson - the owner of the Pot Kiln, famed for its game, in Berkshire - and Edwin Vaux, whose family own the Vaux Brewery.

They backed the efforts of Stephen Williams - formerly a chef at The Ledbury – in a slightly out of way part of Fulham to create a gastropub with a difference, while still retaining the look and feel of being a real ‘local’, but even they could not have imagined the accolades that it would receive.

They have not mucked around with the decor or furniture to any great extent, allowing it retain the look of a genuine public house, which it very much is, and even the dining area is not sectioned off.

Plain though it may appear, however, when it comes to the food it is anything but as the tempo goes far more upbeat and highly creative, which is why it should come as no wonder that, at the end of 2009, they became the first ‘foodie’ pub to be awarded a Michelin star.

Menus, though restricted in size to around five or six choices per course, constantly change, so it is only possible to give you a flavour of what is on offer but a winter meal yielded such warming dishes as chestnut and thyme soup or a warm onion tart with Montgomery cheddar and watercress, trust those to reach the cockles of your heart.

As might be expected, game is very much in evidence, particularly when it is in season, and Mike Robinson either shoots his own venison or arranges supplies from just down the road from the Pot Kiln, witness a superb fallow deer Wellington with celeriac puree, horseradish and shallots braised in stout.

Fish is not neglected either with examples such as a mussel and smoked haddock hotpot with leeks and grain mustard rarebit or roast Cornish cod with chanterelles, sea purslane, salsify fritters and garlic mayonnaise. If this all sounds a bit too robust for vegetarians to stomach, you will find that they are catered for, just ask.

No matter how full you already are, who could possibly resist their puddings like warm Bramley apple doughnuts with spiced sugar or marmalade Bakewell tart with vanilla ice cream, though there is always an excellent cheese available also.

The wine list features a wide range of New and Old World wines and a few off beat numbers, as you might possibly expect from this team, with a wide selection available by the glass, including a couple of sparklers and a sticky. Do note that they make a 12.5% suggested service charge.